{"id":3795,"date":"2014-01-28T13:08:40","date_gmt":"2014-01-28T12:08:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=3795"},"modified":"2023-05-10T16:46:34","modified_gmt":"2023-05-10T15:46:34","slug":"sur-les-traces-de-patrick-berhault-dents-du-pelvoux","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/sur-les-traces-de-patrick-berhault-dents-du-pelvoux\/","title":{"rendered":"Sur les traces de Patrick Berhault aux Dents du Pelvoux."},"content":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s un petit s\u00e9jour \u00e0 Chamonix avec Alex me voil\u00e0 de nouveau \u00e0 la maison et je constate que la m\u00e9t\u00e9o nous annonce une troisi\u00e8me semaine de beau.
\nG\u00e9nial ! Cette fois pour changer, direction les Ecrins o\u00f9 je rejoins Vincent.
\nAvant de venir je rep\u00e8re une petite goulotte tranquille mais c’est sans compter sur Vincent qui rapidement m’app\u00e2te avec une course de bien plus belle envergure : la goulotte Berhault aux dents du Pelvoux.<\/p>\n

\"Un
Un des passages mixte de la voie.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cette voie, qu’il a ouverte en 1978 avec Pierre Brizzi, a sa \u00ab petite \u00bb histoire.
\nEn effet cette ann\u00e9e l\u00e0, la face est surcharg\u00e9e de neige et les deux alpinistes partent avec une avalanche au niveau des pentes sommitales… \u00e0 50 m\u00e8tres du sommet !
\nMiraculeusement ils s’en sont sortis \u00e0 peu pr\u00e8s indemnes.
\nChose que j’ai du mal \u00e0 concevoir, ce jeudi 12 septembre, en contemplant les 800m de face.<\/p>\n

\"Un
Un petit aper\u00e7u de la voie: elle passe dans l’\u00e9troiture bien visible d’ici. Au dessus les pentes de neiges d’o\u00f9 est partie la cord\u00e9e Berhault-Brizzy.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Apr\u00e8s une marche d’approche plut\u00f4t rapide gr\u00e2ce au manque de neige, nous voici au pied de la voie o\u00f9 nous allons bivouaquer. Pas tr\u00e8s loin il y a un petit refuge mais nous, on trouve que c’est plus sport de se geler les fesses avant de faire une voie… Bon en fait on ne l’a pas trouv\u00e9, ceci dit on a oubli\u00e9 la carte, alors c’est d\u00e9j\u00e0 pas mal d’avoir r\u00e9ussi l’approche. Et puis je suis mauvaise langue il ne fait pas si froid que \u00e7a.<\/p>\n

\"Approche
Approche par la vire d’Ailefroide. Un parfum de sud se fait sentir.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Vive
Vive le retardateur car les marmottes sachant prendre une photo sont rares, surtout en cette saison.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8h, on est \u00e0 l’attaque de la voie, Vincent part en t\u00eate et d\u00e9vore rapidement les 2 premi\u00e8res longueurs peu raides en neige et glace. La troisi\u00e8me, en mixte, nous offre de sympathiques encrages sur des touffes d’herbes gel\u00e9es mais \u00e9galement nos derniers moments au soleil avant le sommet. Ensuite, apr\u00e8s une longueur en travers\u00e9e \u00e0 classer dans la cat\u00e9gorie \u00ab prend ton temps si tu ne veux pas te vautrer \u00bb, la voie devient assez roulante sur des pentes de neige. Vient apr\u00e8s un beau ressaut bien fourni en glace de type cascade puis de nouvelles pentes de neige nous am\u00e8nent au pied du crux de la voie.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"D\u00e9part
D\u00e9part de la quatri\u00e8me longueur. \u00ab\u00a0C’est par o\u00f9?\u00a0\u00bb A droite puis \u00e0 gauche toute !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Il s’agit d’une belle longueur en glace (4+) qui verrouille l’acc\u00e8s \u00e0 un goulet que nous remonterons jusqu’aux pentes terminales. Cette longueur invisible du bas \u00e9tait pour nous le point d’interrogation de la voie. Fort heureusement de visu \u00e7a semble bon et je me dis que \u00e7a sera vite r\u00e9gl\u00e9. Tout se passe comme pr\u00e9vu sauf pour les 6 derniers m\u00e8tres en glace pourrie et inconsistante, sur un mur vertical. Comme je commence \u00e0 \u00eatre un peu loin de ma derni\u00e8re broche je d\u00e9sactive le mode gros bourrin pour passer de mani\u00e8re subtile le r\u00e9ta qui est du type \u00ab je m’enterre dans la neige pour pouvoir passer \u00bb. Le quart d’heure suivant je le passe \u00e0 essayer de trouver un emplacement pour le relais que finalement, je fais sur un c\u00e2bl\u00e9 et une broche douteuse (et oui on est dans les Ecrins quand m\u00eame).<\/p>\n

\"Vincent
Vincent \u00e0 la sortie de la premi\u00e8re cascade.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

La suite de la voie moins difficile propose encore quelques belles sections sur 4-5 longueurs pour finir par les fameuses pentes de neiges. Une fois en haut, n’ayant pas r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 faire partir d’avalanches, nous descendons par le glacier des Violettes, long mais moins al\u00e9atoire que la descente Berhault. De cette descente pas grand chose \u00e0 dire \u00e0 part un rappel pour franchir une crevasse, un autre o\u00f9 l’on coince la corde, et quelques chutes de s\u00e9racs qui passent pas tr\u00e8s loin.<\/p>\n

\"Vincent
Vincent dans la derni\u00e8re longueur dure apr\u00e8s la deuxi\u00e8me cascade.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Le
Le glacier des Violettes, notre voie de descente.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

C’est vers 19h que nous arriverons au bivouac et que prendra fin cette superbe course \u00e0 l’ambiance tr\u00e8s montagne. Enfin pas tout \u00e0 fait car il faut encore descendre \u00e0 la voiture. Mais \u00e7a, ce sera pour demain apr\u00e8s une derni\u00e8re nuit \u00e0 admirer les montagnes au clair de lune et, euh… Au frais !<\/p>\n

\"Le
Le lendemain. D\u00e9cid\u00e9ment le dicton \u00ab\u00a0L’avenir appartient \u00e0 ceux qui se l\u00e8vent t\u00f4t\u00a0\u00bb n’a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 aussi vrai.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s un petit s\u00e9jour \u00e0 Chamonix avec Alex me voil\u00e0 de nouveau \u00e0 la maison et je constate que la m\u00e9t\u00e9o nous annonce une troisi\u00e8me semaine de beau. G\u00e9nial ! Cette fois pour changer, direction les Ecrins o\u00f9 je rejoins Vincent. Avant de venir je rep\u00e8re une petite goulotte tranquille mais c’est sans compter sur …<\/p>\n

Sur les traces de Patrick Berhault aux Dents du Pelvoux.<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":31876,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[757,974,973],"class_list":["post-3795","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-alpinisme","tag-berhault","tag-pelvoux"],"yoast_head":"\nSur les traces de Patrick Berhault aux Dents du Pelvoux. - Blog Montania Sport<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/sur-les-traces-de-patrick-berhault-dents-du-pelvoux\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sur les traces de Patrick Berhault aux Dents du Pelvoux. - Blog Montania Sport\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Apr\u00e8s un petit s\u00e9jour \u00e0 Chamonix avec Alex me voil\u00e0 de nouveau \u00e0 la maison et je constate que la m\u00e9t\u00e9o nous annonce une troisi\u00e8me semaine de beau. G\u00e9nial ! Cette fois pour changer, direction les Ecrins o\u00f9 je rejoins Vincent. Avant de venir je rep\u00e8re une petite goulotte tranquille mais c’est sans compter sur … Sur les traces de Patrick Berhault aux Dents du Pelvoux. 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G\u00e9nial ! Cette fois pour changer, direction les Ecrins o\u00f9 je rejoins Vincent. Avant de venir je rep\u00e8re une petite goulotte tranquille mais c’est sans compter sur … Sur les traces de Patrick Berhault aux Dents du Pelvoux. 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