{"id":3370,"date":"2013-11-19T11:57:11","date_gmt":"2013-11-19T10:57:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=3370"},"modified":"2023-05-10T16:46:34","modified_gmt":"2023-05-10T15:46:34","slug":"voie-dartif-au-peney-peter-pan-ed-inf-a2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/voie-dartif-au-peney-peter-pan-ed-inf-a2\/","title":{"rendered":"Voie d’Artif au Peney : Peter Pan (ED inf, A2+)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Au commencement, Alex et moi \u00e9tions des grimpeurs sortis d’une salle d’escalade avec des r\u00eaves de montagnes plein la t\u00eate. Comme tous grimpeurs qui se respectent, nous sommes amoureux du beau geste r\u00e9alis\u00e9 sur un caillou parfait et cela pendant un encha\u00eenement dans les r\u00e8gles de l’art.
\nBref, vous l’avez compris, passer des heures dans une longueur sur du caillou pourri et en tirant comme un sale sur tous les points c’est pas pour nous !
\nQuoique…<\/p>\n

\"L\u00e0
L\u00e0 au moins on est s\u00fbr que le sac de hissage ne va pas se coincer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

Ce jour-l\u00e0, v\u00e2ch\u00e9 \u00e0 mon d\u00e9coinceur qui me sert de crochet goutte d’eau, j’observe le micro friend douteux sur lequel je vais devoir me hisser et je me dis qu’il est \u00e9trange \u00e0 quel point on peut changer d’avis !
\nEnsuite une fois pendu sur ce coinceur, 2 des 4 cames ont la bonne id\u00e9e de sortir de la fissure et l\u00e0, je me dis : \u00ab qu’est-ce que je fous l\u00e0 ? \u00bb
\nBon vous l’aurez compris, je ne peux plus le cacher, nous sommes bien en train de faire de l’artif au Peney.
\nTans pis j’assume et j’avoue m’\u00eatre bien amus\u00e9 dans cette voie qui porte le nom de Peter Pan (en r\u00e9f\u00e9rence aux vols potentiels peut \u00eatre ?).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Alex
Alex, lourdement v\u00eatu, au d\u00e9part de la premi\u00e8re longueur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Premi\u00e8re longueur, tout se d\u00e9roule bien jusqu’\u00e0 ce que j’arrive \u00e0 un piton qu’Alex a plant\u00e9 \u00e0 une vingtaine de m\u00e8tre du sol.
\nCe piton, c’est tout un symbole : il est le premier plant\u00e9 par Alex et aussi le premier que je vais d\u00e9pitonner.
\nCe piton est aussi un universel de 15 cm en acier, plant\u00e9, que dis-je, enterr\u00e9 dans le fin fond d’une fissure par des coups qui ont d\u00fb faire mal au marteau lui-m\u00eame.
\nMais heureusement j’ai mon arme s\u00e9cr\u00e8te : un piolet ! Avec \u00e7a, ce sera r\u00e9gl\u00e9 en 2 minutes…<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"premi\u00e8re
Premi\u00e8re longueur vue du bas…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"...Et
…Et vue du haut<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

20 minutes plus tard, le bras en feu \u00e0 force de manier le lourd marteau d’artif (bien plus efficace que ce stupide piolet), le piton commence \u00e0 bouger, et moi je commence \u00e0 avoir le coup de main.
\nUn coup en haut un coup en bas, un coup en haut et…Put** !
\nUn symbole qui tombe par terre ! \u00c7a commence bien !<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Petite
Petite session de Dry \u00e0 L2.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Au fil des longueurs, nous comprenons qu’il faut oublier nos r\u00e9flexes de grimpeurs et passer en mode bidouilleur, et c’est assez rapidement que nous arrivons \u00e0 la vire de bivouac.
\nBon il faut noter qu’on n’a pas compl\u00e8tement oubli\u00e9 de grimper.
\nAlex \u00e0 quand m\u00eame lib\u00e9r\u00e9 L2 en Dry Tooling. Mais bon, passons \u00e0 la suite…<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Alex
Alex en mode R\u00e9buffat pour passer le toit de L3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Au bivouac rien \u00e0 dire, vire 3 \u00e9toiles, superbe coucher de soleil, Bref tout va bien.<\/p>\n

\"Donc
Coucher de soleil vu du bivouac au Peney.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"La
…La vire trois \u00e9toiles (\u00e0 noter que pendant ce temps l\u00e0, il y en a un qui grimpe)…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"...Et
Un d\u00e9jeuner bien m\u00e9rit\u00e9 !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Le lendemain on arrive au sommet vers 16h, apr\u00e8s 8h d’escalade et 4 longueurs (les horaires pour ce genre d’escalade sont bien loin de ceux auxquels je suis habitu\u00e9).<\/p>\n

\"Cinqui\u00e8me
Cinqui\u00e8me longueur, celle-ci se grimpe plut\u00f4t bien.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Dans
Dans L6.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Finalement c’\u00e9tait vraiment une bonne exp\u00e9rience.
\nJe retiendrai  l’artif comme \u00e9tant une tr\u00e8s bonne \u00e9cole pour tout ce qui est manip et pose de protections.
\nEt m\u00eame si je n’en ferais pas tous les jours, de nouveaux projets sont n\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

\"La
La derni\u00e8re longueur, et \u00e7a tombe bien l’avion qu’on avait command\u00e9 est pile \u00e0 l’heure pour la photo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Au commencement, Alex et moi \u00e9tions des grimpeurs sortis d’une salle d’escalade avec des r\u00eaves de montagnes plein la t\u00eate. Comme tous grimpeurs qui se respectent, nous sommes amoureux du beau geste r\u00e9alis\u00e9 sur un caillou parfait et cela pendant un encha\u00eenement dans les r\u00e8gles de l’art. Bref, vous l’avez compris, passer des heures dans …<\/p>\n

Voie d’Artif au Peney : Peter Pan (ED inf, A2+)<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":31875,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[988,970,990,991],"class_list":["post-3370","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-artif","tag-bauges","tag-chambery","tag-mont-peney"],"yoast_head":"\nVoie d'Artif au Peney : Peter Pan (ED inf, A2+) - Blog Montania Sport<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/voie-dartif-au-peney-peter-pan-ed-inf-a2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Voie d'Artif au Peney : Peter Pan (ED inf, A2+) - Blog Montania Sport\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Au commencement, Alex et moi \u00e9tions des grimpeurs sortis d’une salle d’escalade avec des r\u00eaves de montagnes plein la t\u00eate. Comme tous grimpeurs qui se respectent, nous sommes amoureux du beau geste r\u00e9alis\u00e9 sur un caillou parfait et cela pendant un encha\u00eenement dans les r\u00e8gles de l’art. 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