{"id":3119,"date":"2013-10-23T15:36:09","date_gmt":"2013-10-23T14:36:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=3119"},"modified":"2023-05-10T15:04:57","modified_gmt":"2023-05-10T14:04:57","slug":"voyage-a-lenvers-du-mont-blanc-le-pilier-rouge-du-brouillard","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/voyage-a-lenvers-du-mont-blanc-le-pilier-rouge-du-brouillard\/","title":{"rendered":"Voyage \u00e0 l’Envers du Mont Blanc : Le Pilier Rouge du Brouillard."},"content":{"rendered":"

La Gabarrou-Long est une magnifique voie d’escalade qu’Alex et moi avons <\/span>r\u00e9alis\u00e9e <\/span>d\u00e9but Ao\u00fbt. Elle se d\u00e9roule sur le fantastique pilier rouge du brouillard, un \u00e9difice d’une rare raideur pour le massif. Ajout\u00e9 \u00e0 cela un <\/span>caillou <\/span>chaleureux de par sa couleur orange, vous comprendrez qu’il n’a rien \u00e0 envier au <\/span>G<\/span>rand <\/span>C<\/span>apucin :-)
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Le
Le pilier rouge du brouillard dans toute sa splendeur. La voie passe pile sur le fil de ce monolithe.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

L’inconv\u00e9nient de ce sommet (ou l’avantage) c’est la difficult\u00e9 d’y acc\u00e9der. En effet en plus d’\u00eatre longue, la marche d’approche constitue une course glaci\u00e8re \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re. C’est donc de bonne heure que nous partons en direction du bivouac Ecles. Comme nous sommes <\/span>beaux, jeunes, rapides <\/span>et vraiment bien entra\u00een\u00e9s par nos pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes courses nous mettrons uniquement 7h55 \u00e0 la place des 8h annonc\u00e9s sur le topo (youhou !!!).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Pendant
Pendant la marche d’approche. Les bananes s\u00e9ch\u00e9s c’est bien mais c’est pas fa\u00e7ile \u00e0 m\u00e2cher.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

– Alex \u00ab demain lever 3h c’est pas mal non ? \u00bb<\/span><\/p>\n

– moi \u00ab oaf <\/span>! <\/span>C<\/span>‘est trop t\u00f4t<\/span>. Si<\/span> on attaque pour le lever du jour<\/span>,<\/span> c’est mieux non ? Et puis on va quand m\u00eame pas mettre les 10h annonc\u00e9s pour faire 13 longueurs<\/span><\/span><\/span>! \u00bb<\/span><\/p>\n

– moi, <\/span>apr\u00e8s r\u00e9flexion :<\/span> \u00ab Je <\/span>pense que <\/span>si on se l\u00e8ve \u00e0 5h<\/span>,<\/span> c’est bon, \u00e0 16h on est rentr\u00e9 pour la sieste. \u00bb<\/span><\/p>\n

– Alex (pas convaincu) \u00ab bon <\/span>!<\/span> 4h15 \u00bb<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Moment
Moment de contemplation apr\u00e8s les 8h de mont\u00e9e.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/span><\/p>\n

5h, mon r\u00e9veil sonne et comme toujours c’est frais et <\/span>dispos <\/span>que je rampe hors du lit.
\n6h30, une rimaye bien ouverte nous r\u00e9siste un peu.
\n7H30, premi\u00e8re longueur, <\/span>je n\u2019arrive <\/span>pas \u00e0 mettre mes chaussons tellement ils sont gel\u00e9s !
\nEn fait c’est le bonhomme entier qui est congel\u00e9, et quand enfin j’arrive \u00e0 R1<\/span>,<\/span> j’ai r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 mettre un <\/span>chausson<\/span>, <\/span>j\u2019ai <\/span>perdu 2 gants, pleur\u00e9 3 fois et pouss\u00e9 22 jurons !<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Pour
Pour passer la rimaye il a fallu faire un peu de mixte…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"...Et
…Et ce d\u00e9p\u00eacher de passer sous les s\u00e9racs.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 R4 <\/span>:<\/span> les choses s\u00e9rieuses vont commencer.
\nFini le socle et ces vires rassurantes, maintenant l’escalade devient tr\u00e8s a\u00e9rienne, soutenue et athl\u00e9tique.
\nCette entr\u00e9e dans le<\/span><\/span><\/span> monde de <\/span>la <\/span>verticalit\u00e9 est gard\u00e9e par un beau 7b, tr\u00e8s raide et plut\u00f4t \u00e0 doigt.
\nEnsuite m\u00eame si \u00e7a reste dans le 6, je dois avouer que les difficult\u00e9s <\/span>rencontr\u00e9es <\/span>dans les longueurs <\/span>suivantes m\u2019ont surpris<\/span>.
\nEn effet, longues, soutenues et physiques elles sont enti\u00e8rement \u00e0 prot\u00e9ger.
\nDe plus la majorit\u00e9 des relais sont \u00e0 \u00e9quiper ou \u00e0 renforcer.<\/span>
\nIl faut donc faire attention \u00e0 garder suffisamment de friends (ou alors prendre un peu plus que le jeu prescrit sur le topo).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dans
Dans un 6B+ apr\u00e8s le 7b, le vide commence \u00e0 se faire sentir.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Comme toutes les bonnes choses <\/span>ont <\/span>une fin, nous finissons quand m\u00eame par arriver en haut.
\nIl est 17h30, et nous ne sommes pas en avance mais apr\u00e8s 10h30 d’escalade une pause s’impose !
\nComme quoi des fois les topos <\/span>ont raison<\/span>, 13 longueurs = 10h.
\nNous prenons donc un peu le temps d’admirer le paysage, de <\/span>nous <\/span>impr\u00e9gner de l’ambiance unique qui r\u00e8gne dans cette face aux <\/span>dimensions himalayennes<\/span>.
\nDe temps en temps des chutes de pierre provenant des couloirs qui bordent le pilier viennent rompre le silence.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Sommet
Sommet ! M\u00eame pas fatigu\u00e9^^.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Une
Vue du sommet.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

S\u2019il<\/span> y a bien quelque chose o\u00f9 nous sommes efficaces Alex et moi<\/span>,<\/span> c’est la descente en rappel : 54 minutes pour les 13 longueurs.
\nEt cerise sur le g\u00e2teau, je retrouve mes gants sur le bord d’une crevasse.
\nVers 20h c’est bien <\/span>fatigu\u00e9s <\/span>que nous arrivons au bivouac.
\nNormalement<\/span>,<\/span> le plan \u00e9tait d’encha\u00eener sur le pilier du Freney <\/span>le lendemain<\/span>.
\nR\u00e9flexion faite nous sommes un peu trop crev\u00e9s pour y aller et comme le mauvais temps s’annonce pour le surlendemain nous allons redescendre. Mais pas avant une bonne <\/span>nuit <\/span>de sommeil !<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Finalement
Finalement aujourd’hui \u00e0 la place du Freney ce sera une s\u00e9ance de traction \u00e0 cot\u00e9 du refuge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/span><\/p>\n

Pendant cette descente, rien de particulier \u00e0 signaler, nous avons le temps et nous le prenons.
\nAh si j’oubliais, au passage, j’en profite pour perdre mes gants dans une crevasse. D\u00e9cid\u00e9ment <\/span>c\u2019\u00e9tait \u00e9crit !<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Cette
Cette partie du massif est vraiment \u00e0 part, nous reviendrons. Freney prend garde \u00e0 toi !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Rapha\u00ebl<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La Gabarrou-Long est une magnifique voie d’escalade qu’Alex et moi avons r\u00e9alis\u00e9e d\u00e9but Ao\u00fbt. Elle se d\u00e9roule sur le fantastique pilier rouge du brouillard, un \u00e9difice d’une rare raideur pour le massif. Ajout\u00e9 \u00e0 cela un caillou chaleureux de par sa couleur orange, vous comprendrez qu’il n’a rien \u00e0 envier au Grand Capucin :-)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":31866,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[757,756,984,849,996],"class_list":["post-3119","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-alpinisme","tag-escalade","tag-grandes-voies","tag-massif-du-mont-blanc","tag-pilier-rouge-du-brouillard"],"yoast_head":"\nVoyage \u00e0 l'Envers du Mont Blanc : Le Pilier Rouge du Brouillard. - Blog Montania Sport<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/voyage-a-lenvers-du-mont-blanc-le-pilier-rouge-du-brouillard\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Voyage \u00e0 l'Envers du Mont Blanc : Le Pilier Rouge du Brouillard. - Blog Montania Sport\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La Gabarrou-Long est une magnifique voie d’escalade qu’Alex et moi avons r\u00e9alis\u00e9e d\u00e9but Ao\u00fbt. 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