{"id":3102,"date":"2013-11-20T14:10:26","date_gmt":"2013-11-20T13:10:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=3102"},"modified":"2023-05-10T16:31:48","modified_gmt":"2023-05-10T15:31:48","slug":"pilier-central-du-freney","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/pilier-central-du-freney\/","title":{"rendered":"Pilier Central du Fr\u00eaney"},"content":{"rendered":"

Pour cl\u00f4turer l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 en beaut\u00e9, c\u2019est sur le pilier central du Fr\u00eaney que nous nous sommes \u00e9lev\u00e9s avec Enzo.
\nSuperbe escalade ouverte en 1961, qui n\u2019a pas pris une ride. Un caillou parfait, avec en prime un final de toute beaut\u00e9. L\u2019incroyable chandelle : pilier de granit bien dur d\u00e9bouchant \u00e0 4500 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude !!!
\nUne sortie parfaite pour atteindre le sommet du Mont Blanc.<\/p>\n

\"Petite
Petite d\u00e9tente apr\u00e8s les 2200 m\u00e8tres de mont\u00e9e au refuge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

Le pilier central du Fr\u00eaney, course mythique et engag\u00e9e, est connu suite \u00e0 la trag\u00e9die de la premi\u00e8re tentative d\u2019ascension par une cord\u00e9e Franco-Italienne de 7 alpinistes, men\u00e9e par Walter Bonatti et Pierre Mazeau. Bloqu\u00e9s dans la tourmente pendant plusieurs jours \u00e0 120 m\u00e8tres du sommet, ils tentent de descendre, mais quatre d\u2019entre eux perdront la vie.<\/p>\n

\u00ab\u00a0…Il fait grand beau, mon esprit vagabonde de-ci de-l\u00e0 sans aucune pr\u00e9occupation. Les rayons de soleil sur ma peau me donnent une agr\u00e9able sensation de b\u00e9atitude. Les yeux entrouverts, j\u2019ai une vue parfaite sur la magnifique falaise de Ce\u00fbse. L\u2019ombre arrive, il va \u00eatre temps de mettre un run\u2026\u00a0\u00bb Soudain, une d\u00e9sagr\u00e9able douleur interrompt violemment mon sommeil. J\u2019ai la joue coll\u00e9e \u00e0 une barre de fer et un grillage, \u00e9tonnant ?  Ha oui j\u2019y suis ! Tout me revient : l\u2019interminable mont\u00e9e au bivouac Eccles, la d\u00e9couverte de celui-ci bond\u00e9 (enfin presque !). On a quand m\u00eame pu r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer une paillasse grillag\u00e9e, avec une couverture en prime, puis le d\u00e9but de la nuit 5 \u00e9toiles \u00e0 2 sur le grillage…<\/p>\n

\"Eccles:
Eccles: refuge des plus authentiques pos\u00e9 sur un cairn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

C\u2019est donc apr\u00e8s une nuit des plus d\u00e9licates, que nous entamons la mont\u00e9e \u00e0 4h00, direction le pilier central du Fr\u00eaney.
\nCette fois, c\u2019est s\u00fbr, il n\u2019y \u00e9chappera pas. On est motiv\u00e9s \u00e0 bloc et Enzo met un rythme d\u2019enfer.
\nL\u2019approche ne fait vraiment pas rire : en plus premier rappel, premier probl\u00e8me : une pierre tout droit sortie de l\u2019obscurit\u00e9 vient flirter sur notre unique brin de corde, r\u00e9sultat : quelques m\u00e8tres de perdus (parfait c\u2019est pas comme si on \u00e9tait large en corde\u2026).<\/p>\n

Vient ensuite le premier choix strat\u00e9gique : longer les piliers ou passer par le bas sous la grande crevasse.
\nChoix difficile dans cette obscurit\u00e9 qui nous entoure.
\nFinalement, nous choisissons de longer les piliers.
\nItin\u00e9raire des plus impressionnants, o\u00f9 la moindre petite faute nous conduirait directement \u00e0 Courmayeur, apr\u00e8s une toute petite glissade de 3800 m\u00e8tres\u2026<\/p>\n

6h00, le pied de la voie est atteint et il fait toujours nuit noire. On a pris un peu d\u2019avance sur les horaires habituels car l’objectif est la derni\u00e8re benne !  On est en grosses et on esp\u00e8re pouvoir les garder jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la Chandelle. L\u2019horizon se d\u00e9gage enfin, annon\u00e7ant une excellente journ\u00e9e. Mais en attendent, le soleil se fait cruellement d\u00e9sirer.<\/p>\n

\"Enzo
Enzo \u00e0 l’attaque de la chandelle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On avance bien dans cet oc\u00e9an de granit. On d\u00e9couvre un itin\u00e9raire des plus logiques et particuli\u00e8rement vari\u00e9, alternant dalles, fissures et chemin\u00e9es. Rien de mieux qu\u2019une bonne adh\u00e9rence ou d\u2019un bon d\u00fclfer avec les grosses aux pieds. Surtout dans les sympathiques chemin\u00e9es verglac\u00e9es. Ces plaques, souvent invisibles m\u2019ont donn\u00e9 quelques jolies petites frayeurs. Surtout dans une certaine chemin\u00e9e : \u00e9trange sensation que de se retrouver bloqu\u00e9 et retenu par son sac entre deux plaques de verglas…<\/p>\n

Soudain, le moment tant attendu arrive ! Nous voil\u00e0 devant la magnifique Chandelle, d\u00e9voilant ses superbes lignes, v\u00e9ritable appel \u00e0 la grimpe : on va enfin pouvoir mettre les chaussons !!!
\nLa premi\u00e8re longueur dure de la Chandelle est tip-top : une fissure \u00e0 coincement de doigts parfaite, qui passe plut\u00f4t bien en libre. Elle nous d\u00e9pose au pied d\u2019un toit chemin\u00e9e des plus impressionnants. Le libre c\u2019est top, mais \u00e0 4500 m\u00e8tres, \u00e7a reste \u00e0 voir (surtout avec des sacs faisant office d\u2019\u00e2ne mort !). Autant le dire : \u00e7a artife sec dans cette longueur !<\/p>\n

\"La
La chandelle en un mot: magnifique!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Au sommet du pilier, la vire ne fait vraiment pas rire, le crux c\u2019est de remettre les chaussures, en \u00e9vitant autant que possible, de leur faire faire un vol plan\u00e9 de 600 m\u00e8tres.<\/p>\n

\"la
la derni\u00e8re longueur dure: bien physique \u00e0 4500m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Une petite ar\u00eate mixte, suivie d\u2019une travers\u00e9e, et, cette fois, c\u2019est  s\u00fbr : on y est et il fait grand beau pour notre arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 14h30 sur le toit de l\u2019Europe. Quel contraste avec la derni\u00e8re fois o\u00f9 j\u2019y \u00e9tais mont\u00e9.
\nCette fois c\u2019est les vacances, un soleil radieux et un horizon magnifique \u00e0 perte de vue.
\nQuelques minutes de bonheur et en avant toute pour la descente en compagnie de 2 potes crois\u00e9s au sommet qui arrivaient du mythique pilier rouge du brouillard.<\/p>\n

Par \u00e9thique et d\u2019un commun accord avec Vincent, on d\u00e9cide de se faire les 3800 m\u00e8tres de descente, \u00e0 pied jusqu\u2019aux Houches : c\u2019est long, long, long\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pour cl\u00f4turer l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 en beaut\u00e9, c\u2019est sur le pilier central du Fr\u00eaney que nous nous sommes \u00e9lev\u00e9s avec Enzo. Superbe escalade ouverte en 1961, qui n\u2019a pas pris une ride. Un caillou parfait, avec en prime un final de toute beaut\u00e9. L\u2019incroyable chandelle : pilier de granit bien dur d\u00e9bouchant \u00e0 4500 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude !!! Une sortie …<\/p>\n

Pilier Central du Fr\u00eaney<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":31873,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[756,984,849,987],"class_list":["post-3102","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-escalade","tag-grandes-voies","tag-massif-du-mont-blanc","tag-pilier-central-du-freney"],"yoast_head":"\nPilier Central du Fr\u00eaney - Blog Montania Sport<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/pilier-central-du-freney\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pilier Central du Fr\u00eaney - Blog Montania Sport\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Pour cl\u00f4turer l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 en beaut\u00e9, c\u2019est sur le pilier central du Fr\u00eaney que nous nous sommes \u00e9lev\u00e9s avec Enzo. Superbe escalade ouverte en 1961, qui n\u2019a pas pris une ride. Un caillou parfait, avec en prime un final de toute beaut\u00e9. L\u2019incroyable chandelle : pilier de granit bien dur d\u00e9bouchant \u00e0 4500 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude !!! 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