{"id":16870,"date":"2017-11-21T20:10:01","date_gmt":"2017-11-21T19:10:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=16870"},"modified":"2018-10-23T18:12:22","modified_gmt":"2018-10-23T17:12:22","slug":"face-nord-directe-de-la-meije","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/face-nord-directe-de-la-meije\/","title":{"rendered":"Face Nord directe de la Meije"},"content":{"rendered":"

Arriv\u00e9 sur le long plat des Etan\u00e7ons en direction de la B\u00e9rarde, devant moi, la\u00a0 face nord-ouest du d\u00f4me des Ecrins.
\nC\u2019est une face imposante et complexe\u00a0: 1000 m, faite de tours et d\u2019\u00e9perons, de couloirs et de n\u00e9v\u00e9s suspendus.
\nDerri\u00e8re moi se dresse une paroi non moins massive, mais qui contraste quelque peu de part sa compacit\u00e9.
\nSeule faiblesse \u00e0 cette muraille, une tr\u00e8s caract\u00e9ristique encoche carr\u00e9e dans sa partie occidentale.
\nQue de magnifiques montagnes qui m\u2019entourent\u00a0!
\nSi seulement il faisait jour ;-)
\nJ\u2019attaque donc ma 22\u00e8me heure d\u2019effort, ou seules les nuances de noir viennent agr\u00e9menter le paysage, qui d\u00e9file (lentement) sous mes pas titubants, las. En y repensant, il faut bien avouer que la reine Meije ne s’est pas laiss\u00e9e conqu\u00e9rir si facilement.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

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Face NW du D\u00f4me…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Face sud de la Meije, le promontoire est encore loin.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

La veille, nous sommes partis, Symond et moi, courtiser la belle. Ambitieux et fougueux, tels de jeunes loups, nous visons la plus belle\u00a0: une voie logique et directe, une voie aust\u00e8re et de caract\u00e8re, la 100\u00e8me de Gaston R\u00e9buffat : la Face Nord Directe de la Meije.
\nLa parade nuptiale commen\u00e7a par une longue marche d\u2019approche, charg\u00e9s d\u2019un attirail fort pesant\u00a0: avec une consommation moyenne de 800 kcal toutes les 45 minutes, il faut prendre de quoi nourrir\u00a0 Symond. Environ 3200 Kcal plus tard, nous voici arriv\u00e9s au refuge du promontoire o\u00f9 nous attend une courte nuit.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Le secret contre la fatigue ? La r\u00e9hydratation !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

C\u2019est encore la nuit lorsque commencent nos errances sur le glacier de la Meije. Du genre ouvert et labyrinthique, celui-ci \u00a0ne se laisse pas traverser facilement. \u00a0Crevasses et s\u00e9racs font la loi, imposent le chemin et choisissent le rythme. Le bras de fer commence. Un bon regel, un encordement tr\u00e8s long et un peu d\u2019audace nous permettent de gagner du terrain.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Dans la voie,\u00a0 vue d’ici le glacier fait moins peur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Enfin,\u00a0 la rimaye du Z est devant nous, notre voie commence l\u00e0. 800m au-dessus, le sommet.
\nDe notre sombre point de vue, la face semble vraiment monolithique et d\u00e9pourvue de faiblesses.
\nOn temporise jusqu\u2019au lever du jour : faudrait quand m\u00eame pas se paumer d\u00e8s la rimaye :-)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Juste apr\u00e8s la rimaye, le d\u00e9but du couloir en\u00a0 Z qui dans ces conditions, n’est pas si couloir que \u00e7a.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Les 200 premiers m\u00e8tres (goulotte et mixte facile) sont vite grimp\u00e9s. Apr\u00e8s, c\u2019est du rocher un peu plus raide.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
En avant !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Rien d\u2019extr\u00eame : du 5, 5+, mais c\u2019est soutenu.
\nCertaines dalles, trop glac\u00e9es pour enlever les crampons mais pas assez pour utiliser les piolets demandent tout de m\u00eame un\u00a0peu d\u2019attention.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Symond en fini avec les sections faciles. La suite ? Tout droit, d’o\u00f9 (sans doute) le nom, de \u00ab\u00a0Directe\u00a0\u00bb.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Le caillou est bon, le cheminement logique et esth\u00e9tique, le sol s\u2019\u00e9loigne, l\u2019ambiance s\u2019installe, on kiffe…<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

9h30 d\u2019escalade pour en venir \u00e0 bout !!!<\/strong>
\nIl est 17h et nous sommes au sommet du grand pic de la Meije.
\nNous profitons de la vue et de quelques rayons de soleil pour souffler un peu.
\nLa suite\u00a0? Une bonne descente \u00e0 base de recherche de relais, de coincements de corde et de bouche bien p\u00e2teuse.
\nBref une bartasse !
\nLa balade du p\u00e8lerin p\u00e9nitent, le goulag des temps modernes :-)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Descente devant un paysage somptueux !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

23h.\u00a0 Il est l\u00e0 devant nous\u00a0! \u00c9clair\u00e9 et accueillant : le refuge, le repos\u00a0!
\nMais non, trop facile,\u00a0 on ne s\u2019arr\u00eate pas ! En avant…
\nToujours plus loin dans l\u2019exploration des territoires de la souffrance, en avant\u00a0!<\/p>\n

2h00. Plat des \u00e9tan\u00e7ons, devant moi, la\u00a0 face nord-ouest du d\u00f4me des \u00e9crins, mais \u00e7a je l\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 dit et puis il fait toujours aussi nuit.\u00a0 A ce rythme il ne reste plus que 20-30 minutes pour arriver \u00e0 la voiture…<\/p>\n

La course en quelques chiffres :<\/strong>
\nFace Nord Directe : 800m TD+ (entre 3200 et 3983m)
\nGrade V+ \/ Glace 60\u00b0
\nTemps dans la face : 6 \u00e0 12h dans la face selon conditions !!!
\nS’ajoute l’approche + l’interminable descente…
\nAltitude de La B\u00e9rarde : 1700m
\nAltitude du refuge du Promontoire : 3092m (1 ou 2 nuits \u00e0 pr\u00e9voir)
\nAltitude du sommet de la Meije : 3983m<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Arriv\u00e9 sur le long plat des Etan\u00e7ons en direction de la B\u00e9rarde, devant moi, la\u00a0 face nord-ouest du d\u00f4me des Ecrins. C\u2019est une face imposante et complexe\u00a0: 1000 m, faite de tours et d\u2019\u00e9perons, de couloirs et de n\u00e9v\u00e9s suspendus. Derri\u00e8re moi se dresse une paroi non moins massive, mais qui contraste quelque peu de …<\/p>\n

Face Nord directe de la Meije<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":16891,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[757,862,858],"class_list":["post-16870","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-alpinisme","tag-face-nord-directe","tag-meije"],"yoast_head":"\nFace Nord directe de la Meije - Blog Montania Sport<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/face-nord-directe-de-la-meije\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Face Nord directe de la Meije - Blog Montania Sport\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Arriv\u00e9 sur le long plat des Etan\u00e7ons en direction de la B\u00e9rarde, devant moi, la\u00a0 face nord-ouest du d\u00f4me des Ecrins. C\u2019est une face imposante et complexe\u00a0: 1000 m, faite de tours et d\u2019\u00e9perons, de couloirs et de n\u00e9v\u00e9s suspendus. 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