{"id":13299,"date":"2015-10-14T10:58:30","date_gmt":"2015-10-14T09:58:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=13299"},"modified":"2020-11-07T09:24:45","modified_gmt":"2020-11-07T08:24:45","slug":"aiguille-de-vanoise-1-cest-bien-2-cest-mieux","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/aiguille-de-vanoise-1-cest-bien-2-cest-mieux\/","title":{"rendered":"Aiguille de la Vanoise : 1 c\u2019est bien, 2 c\u2019est mieux."},"content":{"rendered":"

Raph et R\u00e9mi se sont offert une belle escapade \u00ab\u00a0grimpe\u00a0\u00bb en Vanoise, dans l\u2019id\u00e9e de faire 2 grandes voies : la Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier et la Grande Pasquier…<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

Voici le r\u00e9cit de Raph :<\/p>\n

Suite \u00e0 une longue p\u00e9riode de pon\u00e7age de doigts sur les falaises du sud, il me tardait de retourner en montagne. Ce qui tombait plut\u00f4t bien, car R\u00e9mi, apr\u00e8s une longue p\u00e9riode de pon\u00e7age de fesses sur le fauteuil de son bureau, \u00e9tait du m\u00eame avis. Du coup, on y est all\u00e9..<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"Vue<\/a>
Vue sur l\u2019impressionnante face nord du D\u00f4me de la Lauze.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

L\u2019objectif \u00e9tait simple : se faire plaisir.<\/p>\n

\"Objectif<\/a>
Objectif atteint ?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Les contraintes :<\/p>\n

\u2022 Rapha\u00ebl :<\/strong> \u00ab\u00a0Une marche d\u2019approche pas trop longue, belle et abondamment pourvue de curiosit\u00e9s faunistiques et floristiques remarquables. Pour bien profiter, des sacs pas trop lourds. L\u2019escalade doit \u00eatre  belle, sur  un caillou si possible bon et photog\u00e9nique, dans une voie avec des longueurs dures ou alors engag\u00e9es, ou les deux. Le tout \u00e9videment sur un sommet classe et jamais foul\u00e9 de mes petits pieds.\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n

\"Aiguille<\/a><\/p>\n

\u2022 R\u00e9mi :<\/strong> \u00ab\u00a0Cotation max < 8b\u00a0\u00bb (oui, je sais, il est p\u00e9nible !)<\/p>\n

\"Aiguille<\/a><\/p>\n

Il existe en Savoie ce genre de petit paradis, \u00e0 savoir l\u2019Aiguille de la Vanoise<\/strong> et sa face nord. Nous y partons pour 2 jours dans l\u2019id\u00e9e de faire 2 grandes voies : la Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier et la Grande Pasquier.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"L'Aiguille<\/a>
L’Aiguille de la Vanoise vue de pr\u00e8s,  qui en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 est moins aust\u00e8re que sur la photo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jour 1 : la Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier<\/h4>\n

Cette voie moderne fut ouverte en 2013 par un trio de choc : Patrick Gabarrou, Yoann Joly et Ben O’Connor-Croft, en hommage \u00e0  Fran\u00e7ois Deffert et Xavier Chambet, morts dans l\u2019arr\u00eate du brouillard.<\/p>\n

Au programme 5 longueurs d\u2019approche en 6a-b puis 5 longueurs entre le 7a+ et 7c sur un bon caillou, dalleux et technique \u00e0 souhait, le tout sur un fond de Grande Casse.<\/p>\n

\"R\u00e9mi<\/a>
R\u00e9mi aux prises avec le 7a+ : enfin du bon caillou.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

L\u2019Aiguille de la Vanoise et la Grande Casse, deux sommets mythiques. Le premier est d\u2019altitude modeste, mais avec un \u00e9lancement et une \u00e9l\u00e9gance qui n\u2019a rien \u00e0 envier aux grands pics ac\u00e9r\u00e9s de Chamonix (sauf aux Drus). L\u2019autre, bien plus grand, nous am\u00e8ne en haute montagne, cependant l\u2019ambiance pourra para\u00eetre bien plus paisible..<\/p>\n

\"R\u00e9mi<\/a>
R\u00e9mi sur fond de Grande Casse et de Grande Gli\u00e8re.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

R\u00e9mi sera l\u2019homme li\u00e8vre de la marche d\u2019approche et nous imposera un rythme, disons\u2026 \u00e9nergique. Ce rythme sera maintenu sur les 5 premi\u00e8res longueurs malgr\u00e9 le caillou douteux.<\/p>\n

\"Voire<\/a>
Voire plus que douteux.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Puis vient la premi\u00e8re longueur dure (7a+), le ton est vite donn\u00e9 : technicit\u00e9 et sensation, une superbe longueur. Malheureusement la casse d\u2019une prise me privera de l’encha\u00eenement. D\u00e9sagr\u00e9ment qui ne sera pas r\u00e9it\u00e9r\u00e9 \u00e0 la longueur suivante car des prises il n\u2019y en a pas : un magnifique 7c dalle tout en travers\u00e9e, qui finalement se r\u00e9v\u00e9lera plus dur \u00e0 lire qu\u2019\u00e0 grimper.  Une fois le crux pass\u00e9, la pression redescend d\u2019un cran et le 7b+ et 7b qui suivent s’encha\u00eeneront plut\u00f4t bien (bon je ne vais pas mentir, on a quand m\u00eame forc\u00e9 un peu). Encore 2 longueurs faciles et c\u2019est le sommet.<\/p>\n

\"Dans<\/a>
Dans le 7c dalle.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Le<\/a>
Le 7b, on commence \u00e0 prendre de la hauteur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Last<\/a>
Last pitch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Clic clac, immortalisation du moment mais pas trop car il faut en garder pour demain. Du coup on finit par descendre.<\/p>\n

Jour 2 : La grande Pasquier.<\/h4>\n

L1 : Ce matin, le vent est omnipr\u00e9sent, ses caresses – ou plut\u00f4t devrais-je-dire ses flagellations – nous permettent d\u2019\u00e9viter l\u2019hyperthermie. Les plus puissantes de ses bourrasques vont jusqu\u2019\u00e0 nous d\u00e9s\u00e9quilibrer lors de l\u2019escalade. Comme qui dirait \u00ab y\u2019a de l\u2019ambiance \u00bb. R\u00e9mi m\u2019avoue \u00eatre proche du z\u00e9ro plaisir.  De mon c\u00f4t\u00e9 j\u2019h\u00e9site encore, pour l\u2019instant dans les longueurs faciles il est vrai que ce n\u2019est pas terrible, mais plus haut dans le di\u00e8dre sommital, le crux de la voie, il se pourrait que ce soit un beau combat. Bref mon c\u00f4t\u00e9 sadomaso est titill\u00e9\u2026 Avec un peu de chance il y aura des sections mouill\u00e9es…<\/p>\n

\"Le<\/a>
Le bon caillou !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Voil\u00e0<\/a>
Voil\u00e0 qui est mieux.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chaque longueur est un \u00e9merveillement devant la logique et la qualit\u00e9 de l\u2019itin\u00e9raire choisi par les ouvreurs.  Vari\u00e9e et jamais tr\u00e8s difficile, l\u2019escalade se d\u00e9roule sur un tr\u00e8s bon caillou. L\u2019ambiance dans le di\u00e8dre sommital est d\u2019anthologie (et l\u00e0 il faut grimper un peu quand m\u00eame). Bref, une voie de grande classe \u00e0 l\u2019ancienne.<\/p>\n

\"Dans<\/a>
Dans le grand di\u00e8dre, premi\u00e8re longueur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Suite<\/a>
Suite et\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"Aiguille<\/a><\/p>\n

…fin<\/p>\n

\"Aiguille<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Raph et R\u00e9mi se sont offert une belle escapade \u00ab\u00a0grimpe\u00a0\u00bb en Vanoise, dans l\u2019id\u00e9e de faire 2 grandes voies : la Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier et la Grande Pasquier…   Voici le r\u00e9cit de Raph : Suite \u00e0 une longue p\u00e9riode de pon\u00e7age de doigts sur les falaises du sud, il me tardait de retourner en montagne. Ce qui …<\/p>\n

Aiguille de la Vanoise : 1 c\u2019est bien, 2 c\u2019est mieux.<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":13328,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[756,931],"class_list":["post-13299","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-escalade","tag-vanoise"],"yoast_head":"\nAiguille de la Vanoise : 1 c\u2019est bien, 2 c\u2019est mieux. - Blog Montania Sport<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/aiguille-de-vanoise-1-cest-bien-2-cest-mieux\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Aiguille de la Vanoise : 1 c\u2019est bien, 2 c\u2019est mieux. - Blog Montania Sport\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Raph et R\u00e9mi se sont offert une belle escapade \u00ab\u00a0grimpe\u00a0\u00bb en Vanoise, dans l\u2019id\u00e9e de faire 2 grandes voies : la Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier et la Grande Pasquier…   Voici le r\u00e9cit de Raph : Suite \u00e0 une longue p\u00e9riode de pon\u00e7age de doigts sur les falaises du sud, il me tardait de retourner en montagne. 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