{"id":13115,"date":"2015-07-30T14:50:41","date_gmt":"2015-07-30T13:50:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=13115"},"modified":"2016-06-23T18:03:16","modified_gmt":"2016-06-23T17:03:16","slug":"gueule-d-amour-au-verdon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/gueule-d-amour-au-verdon\/","title":{"rendered":"Gueule d'Amour au Verdon"},"content":{"rendered":"

Raph, Marius et Niels se sont rendus dans le Verdon, avec la ferme intention d’\u00eatre \u00ab\u00a0de ceux qui ont fait Gueule d’Amour<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0. Voici leur r\u00e9cit de cette s\u00e9ance d’escalade pas comme les autres…<\/h2>\n

Quand je dis escalade au Verdon, tout de suite on pense aux grandes envol\u00e9es verticales sur un caillou gris parfait, cribl\u00e9 de gouttes d\u2019eau, pour le plus grand bonheur des grimpeurs. Jusque-l\u00e0 pas d\u2019erreurs.
\nOn peut aussi ajouter au tableau l\u2019incroyable sensation de vide de ces itin\u00e9raires. Le Verdon et ses eaux turquoise continuent inlassablement son travail d\u2019\u00e9rosion.
\nN\u2019oublions pas le grand vautour fauve. De par son vol majestueux mais nonchalant, on comprend vite qu\u2019il se moque bien des petits bip\u00e8des, devenus quadrup\u00e8des pour l\u2019occasion, essayant laborieusement de se hisser sur les parois…
\nDonc voil\u00e0, nous avons l\u00e0 le Verdon, carte postale, celui que tout grimpeur sain de corps et d\u2019esprit irait visiter\u2026ce qui n\u2019est pas forc\u00e9ment notre cas en choisissant \u00ab\u00a0Gueule d’Amour<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0.
\n<\/p>\n

\"Les
Les gouttes d’eau, le vide, \u00a0et l’homme qui se hisse laborieusement au sommet…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Par
Par contre pour la photo de vautour je n’ai que \u00e7a (d\u00e9sol\u00e9 Niels !).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Apr\u00e8s une visite avec l\u2019ami Marius dans l\u2019incontournable F\u00eate des Nerfs<\/em>, voie dans laquelle le\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0broutage de doigts\u00a0\u00bb a pris une nouvelle dimension, nous voici une fois de plus \u00e0 la recherche de nouveaux projets.<\/p>\n

\"Dans
Dans la F\u00eate des Nerfs.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"On
On s’amuse comme on peut au relais<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Par hasard, je tombe sur le topo de \u00ab\u00a0Gueule d\u2019Amour<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0. Une voie de prime abord sans int\u00e9r\u00eat\u00a0: 4 longueurs, 6c max, bref, rien de bien palpitant au vu des possibilit\u00e9s du site.\u00a0 Cependant sur le topo il y a ce commentaire\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0dans le Verdon, il y a 2 sortes de grimpeurs : il y a ceux qui ont fait Gueule d\u2019Amour et il y a les autres.\u00a0\u00bb. C\u2019est d\u00e9cid\u00e9, nous serons de ceux qui l’ont fait.<\/p>\n

Ami lecteur, si pour toi l\u2019escalade c\u2019est une discipline qui consiste \u00e0 s\u2019\u00e9lever avec gr\u00e2ce, l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9, technicit\u00e9 ou encore finesse\u2026oublie cette voie !!!<\/p>\n

\"zqer\"
Niels dans une adh\u00e9rence pr\u00e9caire. Euh… en fait, non.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Toujours-l\u00e0\u00a0? Bon tr\u00e8s bien, c\u2019est parti ! Sans transition passons aux rappels, qui seront plut\u00f4t bien n\u00e9goci\u00e9s car nous n’en coincerons qu\u2019un seul\u2026 sur deux (arrgh\u00a0!!!). Apr\u00e8s moult et moult acharnement pour tirer la corde il faut se rendre \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9vidence, il va falloir remonter. Bon prince, je m\u2019y colle. Apr\u00e8s une heure, 55m de remont\u00e9e sur corde en fil d\u2019araign\u00e9e et un rappel, la corde se laisse enfin tirer. Pendant ce temps-l\u00e0 Marius et Niels, mes compagnons de cord\u00e9e du jour, en ont profit\u00e9 pour se faire un petit bronzage \u00ab al dente\u00a0\u00bb, tout en siestant entre chaque pose de cr\u00e8me solaire (pour r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer sans doute). Bref c\u2019est, il faut le dire, 2 grosses loutres que je retrouve une fois ma besogne accomplie.<\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s ces p\u00e9rip\u00e9ties, 5 minutes de marche nous am\u00e8nent au pied de la voie. La belle, ou la b\u00eate diront certains, est impressionnante\u00a0 de puret\u00e9 et d\u2019\u00e9vidence\u00a0: un d\u00e9vers monstrueux coup\u00e9 de haut en bas par une chemin\u00e9e plut\u00f4t\u2026 \u00e9troite. La promesse d\u2019une grimpe atypique et en plus au frais, me confirme que nous avons fait le bon choix.<\/p>\n

\"dfgh\"
Pouvez-vous deviner o\u00f9 passe la voie ?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"cvhn
Indice : elle empreinte une ligne de faiblesse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ah\u00a0! Quel plaisir de prendre du plaisir \u00e0 ramper dans une chemin\u00e9e malcommode\u00a0! Il\u00a0 faut dire que cette fois je n\u2019ai pas de sac, ni de crampons ni de grosses, qu’il n\u2019y a pas de neige et qu’il ne fait pas -10\u00b0C. Heureusement, chaque longueur a son petit truc pour pimenter la sauce !<\/p>\n

\"xdfgh\"
On ne va pas se plaindre, il y a des colos.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

La premi\u00e8re longueur par exemple, est clairement dure. Dure car physique et inconfortable\u00a0: le dos d\u2019un c\u00f4t\u00e9, les pieds de l\u2019autre, les genoux derri\u00e8re les oreilles, elles-m\u00eames \u00e0 droite ou \u00e0 gauche de la t\u00eate, \u00e7a d\u00e9pend.<\/p>\n

\"L1,
L1, un d\u00e9part prometteur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"dfghn\"
Avant le relais<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

La longueur suivante plus facile est en revanche beaucoup plus engag\u00e9e mais aussi plus noire, au sens propre du terme. Pour faire clair, dans cette obscurit\u00e9, l\u2019\u00e9loignement des points transforme un peu l\u2019escalade en une s\u00e9ance de course d\u2019orientation pour sp\u00e9l\u00e9ologue. Bon mental recommand\u00e9 pour le leader, au risque de regretter cette sombre id\u00e9e de venir dans cette maudite voie.<\/p>\n

\"xdfghn\"
Une fissure mangeuse d’homme<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

La derni\u00e8re longueur termine cette belle escalade en apoth\u00e9ose. Finie la rassurante chemin\u00e9e, nous voil\u00e0 propuls\u00e9s plein gaz dans un\u00a0 d\u00e9vers monstrueux. La cotation\u00a0? \u00c0<\/span> vue de nez 8b, en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 6c.<\/p>\n

\"sdfgb\"
Vue du bas.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"sdfgn\"
Et du haut.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Une
Une derni\u00e8re pour la route.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Eh bien voil\u00e0, apr\u00e8s cette superbe voie justement nomm\u00e9e Gueule d’Amour<\/em>, nous sommes de retour sur le magnifique plateau du Verdon.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1272\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Raph, Marius et Niels se sont rendus dans le Verdon, avec la ferme intention d’\u00eatre \u00ab\u00a0de ceux qui ont fait Gueule d’Amour\u00ab\u00a0. Voici leur r\u00e9cit de cette s\u00e9ance d’escalade pas comme les autres… Quand je dis escalade au Verdon, tout de suite on pense aux grandes envol\u00e9es verticales sur un caillou gris parfait, cribl\u00e9 de …<\/p>\n

Gueule d'Amour au Verdon<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":13202,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[756],"class_list":["post-13115","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nEscalade 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