{"id":10118,"date":"2015-03-09T17:00:16","date_gmt":"2015-03-09T16:00:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/?p=10118"},"modified":"2016-07-06T17:54:16","modified_gmt":"2016-07-06T16:54:16","slug":"cascade-de-glace-en-maurienne","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.montania-sport.com\/blog\/cascade-de-glace-en-maurienne\/","title":{"rendered":"Cascade de glace en Maurienne"},"content":{"rendered":"

Rapha\u00ebl, accompagn\u00e9 de ses deux\u00a0acolytes R\u00e9mi et Niels, sont partis t\u00e2ter la glace de Maurienne, plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans la classique cascade de La Boulang\u00e8re (11 longueurs pour 400m). Rien de tr\u00e8s difficile (grade 5 max), mais une cascade soutenue par endroits. Voici leur r\u00e9cit.<\/h3>\n

Nous jugeons les cascades de la Bronsonni\u00e8re et le Go\u00fbter des g\u00e9n\u00e9raux, objectifs initiaux du jour, tout de m\u00eame un peu fines. Nous nous rabattons donc sur la grande classique d\u2019Orelle, appel\u00e9e \u00e9galement Lanchinal, ou Cascade de la Boulang\u00e8re. Que de noms diff\u00e9rents pour une m\u00eame cascade\u00a0! Mais aussi que de longueurs\u00a0! 11 pour \u00eatre pr\u00e9cis, pour 400m de hauteur, et un beau voyage en perspective.<\/p>\n

Sur le topo rien de bien difficile, la cascade ne d\u00e9passe pas le 5 et est soutenue dans le 3+\/4. Cependant, \u00e9tant donn\u00e9es les conditions actuelles, les passages-cl\u00e9s, pour notre plus grand plaisir, ne se laissent pas faire. Les passages faciles non plus d\u2019ailleurs, je n\u2019ai jamais grimp\u00e9 sur autant de cloches ! D\u2019ailleurs, on pourrait peut-\u00eatre la rebaptiser La grande messe\u00a0? :-)<\/p>\n

\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-15\"<\/a>
La glace, ce mat\u00e9riau vivant.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-2\"<\/a>
L’habitude de fermer les bras dans les toits se ressentirait-elle sur les piolets ? :-)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-10\"<\/a>
Niels en action.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-111\"<\/a>
Et R\u00e9mi qui cl\u00f4ture la cord\u00e9e en V.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-12\"<\/a>
La Boulang\u00e8re ? Une des nombreuses cascades de basse Maurienne.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-3\"<\/a>
Glace un peu fine, avant la longueur en 4+\/5 plus haut.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cascade-glace-boulangere-maurienne-13\"<\/a>
Dans L9, une bonne renfougne en 4 (5\/5+?) o\u00f9 pouvoir tracter sur un bras n’est pas un handicap.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Ambiance<\/a>
Le ciel, le rocher, et la glace…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pour cette Cascade de la boulang\u00e8re, l\u2019escalade est belle et vari\u00e9e : murs verticaux, m\u00e9duses, cigares, goulottes, et m\u00eame renfougne\u00a0! Je n\u2019en dis pas plus, vous l\u2019avez compris : cette cascade est \u00e0 faire (si si, je vous jure, on oublie presque qu’on est au-dessus d\u2019une autoroute, d\u2019un chemin de fer, d\u2019une nationale, d\u2019une mine d\u2019aluminium et d\u2019un t\u00e9l\u00e9ph\u00e9rique, presque\u00a0!).<\/p>\n

Le topo de la Cascade de la boulang\u00e8re<\/h1>\n

D\u00e9nivel\u00e9 des difficult\u00e9s : 400m
\nOrientation principale : NW
\nCotation globale : D+
\nEngagement : II
\nQualit\u00e9 de l’\u00e9quipement en place : P3
\nCotation glace : 5<\/p>\n

Acc\u00e8s<\/h4>\n

Gagner Saint-Michel de Maurienne, et prendre la nationale. Il faut se garer au niveau de l’entr\u00e9e du tunnel de l’autoroute (les Sordi\u00e8res), puis longer la voie ferr\u00e9e sur 500m environ, et la traverser au deuxi\u00e8me pont sur la droite (si la route est d\u00e9gag\u00e9e possibilit\u00e9 de venir au niveau du pont).<\/p>\n

Mont\u00e9e<\/h4>\n

Suivre la route SNCF et (2\u00e8me pont) passer la voie ferr\u00e9e, remonter au fond de la gorge puis en sortir pour monter en \u00e9charpe \u00e0 gauche (au niveau d’u petit mur de glace), contourner un \u00e9peron rocheux et gagner le pied de la cascade (40min par bon enneigement).<\/p>\n

L1 : Courte longueur en 3 (70\u00b0) + marche
\nL2 : Court ressaut 3 (60m)
\nL3 : Ressaut en 3+ (15m)
\nL4 : Grande longueur de 40m en 4+
\nL5 : Ressaut en 3+ (25m) (L4+L5 = 60m)<\/p>\n

Arriv\u00e9 au sommet de la cascade, prendre \u00e0 droite pour rejoindre une gorge puis remonter le ruisseau vers la seconde cascade.<\/p>\n

L6 : Ressaut en 3 (relais 2 spits).
\nL7 : Ressaut en 3 (relais sur broches, lunule \u00e0 faire pour la descente)
\nL8 : Longueurs cl\u00e9, 50m, 4+\/5, 6\/7m verticaux, puis 15m en 3+ et neige. Relais \u00e0 faire sur la droite (friend, pitons)
\nL9 : Goulotte rampe 3+ (50m).
\nL10 : Goulotte quasi verticale, 15m, 4+\/5 (relais au pied dans la grotte).
\nL11 : courte longueur en 4.<\/p>\n

Descente<\/h4>\n

Rappel dans la voie (lunule et vieux pitons).\u00a0Puis \u00e0 pied dans la gorge que l’on descend puis repartir \u00e0 droite d\u00e8s qu’on le sent (sapin, en face de la cascade de la Falconi\u00e8re) pour rebasculer sur la croupe rive droite et retrouver le pied de la voie.<\/p>\n

Toutes les informations sont sur le site de notre partenaire Camp To Camp !<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSCF5931<\/a>
Raph et ses piolets : une grande histoire d’amour !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rapha\u00ebl, accompagn\u00e9 de ses deux\u00a0acolytes R\u00e9mi et Niels, sont partis t\u00e2ter la glace de Maurienne, plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans la classique cascade de La Boulang\u00e8re (11 longueurs pour 400m). Rien de tr\u00e8s difficile (grade 5 max), mais une cascade soutenue par endroits. Voici leur r\u00e9cit. Nous jugeons les cascades de la Bronsonni\u00e8re et le Go\u00fbter des …<\/p>\n

Cascade de glace en Maurienne<\/span> Lire la suite\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":10282,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33],"tags":[757],"class_list":["post-10118","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sorties-montagne","tag-alpinisme"],"yoast_head":"\nCascade de glace en Maurienne<\/title>\n<meta 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